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Group 1: Introduction
Cairo Under Wraps: Early Islamic Textiles What we know about textiles from the early days of Islam comes primarily from Egypt, where fragile materials—linen, cotton, wool, silk—have been preserved in the dry soil as burial shrouds. This exhibition displays textiles from the first six
Group 2: Early Examples
The Coptic Legacy Christian Egyptians were known as Copts. They continued to dominate the textile industry after the Muslim conquest of Egypt, working in the materials and techniques most familiar to them. Imported silks from Sasanian Iran and Byzantium, woven on the drawloom, were copied in
Group 3: Abbasid & Early Fatimid tiraz
Abbasid tiraz Arrival of the Fatimids in Cairo The first Muslim dynasty, the Umayyad, fell to the Abbasids in 750, and the capital moved from Damascus (Syria) to Baghdad (Iraq). Here the Abbasid Caliph ruled an empire stretching from North Africa to Afghanistan. The Caliph’s display of wealth and
Group 4: Embedded scripts
Embedded scripts During the later Fatimid period more attention was paid to embedding the inscription within an artistic background. Tendrils grow from the letters and sprout buds (floriated kufic). Intricate arabesque designs of rhythmically scrolling and interlacing foliage often frame birds and
Group 5: Gold!
Gold! All the textiles (qasab) in this section have tapestry decoration in silk and gold and represent expensive, luxury fabrics. Gold could only be obtained through the government monopoly, so these beautiful textiles must have been made for the royal household or the aristocracy. Most do not
Group 6: Cursive script
Cursive script By the 12th century, the archaic k ufic script gave way to the cursive style (naskhi). Inscriptions no longer communicate the protocol of the Fatimid caliph. Instead, the words convey general wishes for success and well-being. The decorative bands between the two inscription lines
Group 7: Regalia
Regalia: tiraz among the privileges of the ruler As in other medieval societies, there were rights that belonged to the caliph exclusively; being mentioned in the sermon when the Muslim community gathered on Fridays was one of them. It expressed the recognition of the named person as sovereign.
Group 8: Everyday life
Coinage Another such prerogative was coinage regality, the right to have coins minted in one’s own name. It was strictly enforced and, therefore, coins most exactly speak to historians about the extension of an area claimed by a ruler. In Egypt, the capital Misr (Old Cairo) — where the making
Group 9: Costume
Early Islamic dress In contrast to Coptic tunics, which were woven to shape on a very wide loom, these dresses are composed of several pieces cut from a length of fabric woven on a narrower loom. In general, the body is cut in a single piece that wraps over the shoulder to form the centre front and
Barbara Turnbull
Barbara Turnbull a obtenu, en 1990, un baccalauréat en journalisme avec grande distinction à l’Université d’État de l’Arizona. C’est aussi elle qui y a prononcé le discours d'adieu. Après ses études, elle est devenue journaliste généraliste au Toronto Star. Elle écrit